A Syrian Refugee, owner of revered eatery Al-Aga, tells his story

By Daniel Catalan, with contributions from Nanor Demirjian, Bana Shehadeh and Fares Ak Al-Aga, a hole-in-the-wall eatery of traditional cuisine and vendor of products used in Syrian kitchens, is owned by a 54-year old refugee. He requested to be called by his nickname, Abu-Issam, or simply as ‘a man from …